The coastal fishing villages of Mui Ne Ward, Lam Dong Province, are entering their peak anchovy processing season.
Along the seaside roads of Mui Ne Ward, visitors are greeted by the sight of steam rising from rooftops and thousands of bamboo trays covered in steamed anchovies drying under the sun, blanketing vast courtyards. The scent of fresh sea fish mingling with woodsmoke creates a signature aroma unique to these coastal communities.
From April to November each year, while the men head out to sea for the catch, the women in Mui Ne’s fishing villages remain busy at the steaming facilities. Around 6:00 a.m. at Mui Ne's beach, coracles filled with fresh anchovies reach the shore and are immediately carried by female laborers to trucks headed for processing kilns.
At her anchovy steaming facility in Mui Ne, Ms. Nguyen Thi Ba moves with practiced precision. The longtime female owner of anchovy steaming facility insists that speed is everything when it comes to preserving the delicate freshness of the catch. According to her, once hauled in, the anchovies are swiftly washed, then arranged in neat layers across mesh trays. Steam rises as the fish are cooked, before being carried out to dry under the sun.
Every step must be quick yet gentle, Ms. Nguyen Thi Ba explained, her hands steady as she demonstrated the process, saying that if you handle them too roughly, the fish will break and fail to meet quality standards.
The most labor-intensive part is the steaming process, where men carry stacks of trays into large vats. Once cooked, the steaming racks are wheeled out to the drying yards. Under the intense coastal sun, workers must constantly flip the fish to ensure they dry evenly, retaining their bright color and characteristic fragrance.
Currently, the anchovy processing trade is concentrated in Mui Ne Ward with about 40 to 50 seasonal facilities in operation. On average, a single facility can process 4 to 10 tons of fresh fish daily. Once dried, the anchovies are packaged for distribution across the country and for export.
Finished steamed anchovies are priced between VND60,000 and VND80,000 per kilogram, providing a stable income for local businesses and laborers during favorable fishing seasons. For the local women, the anchovy season is more than just a livelihood, it is an opportunity to save for the entire year. During peak times, workers can earn several hundred thousand Vietnamese dong per day, significantly higher than other seasonal jobs in the area.