Traditional salt-making villages struggle amid urbanization

Deeply rooted in the history of land reclamation and settlement, traditional coastal crafts like salt-making have long been established in Southeastern region of Vietnam, including Mo Xoai, An Ngai, and Long Son (Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province), as well as Ly Nhon and Thanh An (Can Gio, Ho Chi Minh City). Despite being a physically demanding trade shaped by the sea’s salinity and the harsh Southern sun, salt production now faces major challenges due to urbanization and shifts in agriculture.

Shrinking salt fields

Historical records suggest that sea salt production in Southern Vietnam dates back to the 17th century, land reclamation efforts led by Nguyen Thi Ria, who developed what is now Ba Ria. The 1836 land registry of the Nguyen Dynasty documented that salt-making was officially established in Ba Ria - Vung Tau in the 19th century, particularly in An Ngai Commune (now Long Dat District).

While salt was mainly produced in An Ngai, the well-known “Ba Ria salt” brand gained prominence during the French colonial period when the area was part of Ba Ria Town in former Phuoc Tuy Province. With its high salinity, Ba Ria salt remains a preferred choice for fish sauce producers in the Mekong Delta. Notably, Phu Quoc’s famous anchovy fish sauce owes much of its quality to Ba Ria salt.

Long Dat District, home to over 100 families engaged in traditional salt-making passed down through generations, accounts for 70 percent of the province’s salt production. At its peak, An Ngai Commune’s salt fields covered over 500 hectares along Provincial Road No.44. Among the region’s most experienced salt farmers is Huynh Van Thuyet, 68, a third-generation artisan of the trade.

At just 15, Thuyet began working with his father in the salt fields, experiencing firsthand the backbreaking labor involved. He recalls a golden era when Ba Ria salt was in high demand, with traders from the Mekong Delta docking ships to buy salt for fish preservation and fish sauce-making. However, this prosperity was short-lived as other regions developed their own salt industries, foreign imports undercut local prices, and market conditions changed.

Today, harsh working conditions, low earnings compared to other trades, and unpredictable weather have forced many salt farmers to sell their land or shift to high-tech shrimp farming.

Nguyen Van Gia, a salt farmer with over 35 years of experience in An Ngai Commune, stated that under favorable weather conditions, traditional salt production yields 70-80 tons per hectare, while plastic-lined salt fields produce 110-120 tons per hectare. If prices are good, net profits can reach VND30-50 million per hectare after expenses. However, in recent years, unfavorable weather and declining salt prices have forced many farmers to switch to industrial shrimp farming, lease out their salt fields, or abandon them altogether.

For the 2024-2025 season, An Ngai Commune is expected to have just over 70 households producing salt on more than 270 hectares. Across the province, the total salt farming area has declined to around 450 hectares, a decrease of nearly 130 hectares compared to the previous season.

A tradition with tourism potential

Long Son salt, produced in Vung Tau City, Ba Ria - Vung Tau Province, has a history spanning over a century. Though not widely known, there was a time when it was transported across Vietnam’s Southwestern region and even traded in Cambodia for rice and other goods, providing salt farmers with a prosperous livelihood.

However, the salt fields in Long Son have shrunk to just a few dozen hectares, with much of the land leased to outsiders for production. Despite this decline, salt remains a local specialty, evident along the road leading to the Long Son Great House, where residents display and sell large bags of coarse salt with the area’s distinct briny flavor.

With over 25 years of experience in salt farming, Pham Viet Thang highlights the unique "da rong" (salt crust) method used in Long Son. Unlike traditional salt production, which requires leveling the fields after each harvest before refilling them with seawater, the da rong method begins at the start of the season. Farmers clear the mud, dry the field, and compact the surface before pumping in seawater. After about a month, a silvery-white salt crust forms, which is then rolled flat, creating a firm base similar to cement. This hardened layer allows farmers to restart production after each harvest with minimal field preparation.

Salt produced using the da rong method is cleaner, denser, and whiter than conventionally made salt, making it highly sought after by traders. At its peak, Long Son salt was a preferred choice among Phu Quoc fish sauce producers due to its superior quality.

As one of the island commune’s oldest specialties, Long Son salt sees peak sales during the Double Ninth Festival, held annually on the 9th day of the 9th lunar month at the Long Son Great House to commemorate the forefather of Long Son Commune, Le Van Muu (1855 - 1935), known locally as “Mr. Tran”. He was the first to settle on the land and establish Long Son Commune. Thousands of visitors travel from the Mekong Delta and some other provinces to offer incense and pay tribute. Many buy bags of coarse salt as souvenirs, honoring the legacy of Long Son’s early settlers.

For Vung Tau residents, Long Son salt remains a household essential, commonly used for preserving fish, making fish sauce, or washing fruits and vegetables.

Mr. Ha Huu Dung, Secretary of the Party Committee of Long Son Commune, highlights the region’s future focus on petrochemical industries, urbanization, and eco-tourism. With salt fields conveniently located near major roads, they present an opportunity for experiential tourism, especially for international visitors. Local authorities are working to enhance the branding of Long Son salt through OCOP-certified seafood, dried goods, and fish sauce, aiming to improve incomes and ensure the long-term sustainability of the salt-making tradition.

In Can Gio District (Ho Chi Minh City), salt-making has also been a long-standing tradition. However, like in many other areas, salt farmers here struggle with unstable income due to weather dependency and fluctuating salt prices, making it less profitable than oyster, shrimp, or fish farming.

Can Gio currently has 1,547 hectares of salt fields, primarily in Thanh An and Ly Nhon communes, with Ly Nhon alone accounting for 963 hectares (487 households). Most salt production now uses plastic-lined fields to improve yield and quality, but maintaining the industry remains uncertain if prices continue to decline.